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GIRL'S PLAY SMOCK (2-4 years)
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The project
The sewing instructions
Download
Pattern-smock.pdf
BY CÉDRIC NEUSCHWANDER
Materials:
- 60 cm of plain cotton fabric
- 40 cm of patterned cotton fabric
- 2 buttons
- 40 cm of coloured ribbon
- A few sequins or beads
- Assorted thread, pencil, ruler, scissors and pins
Instructions:
Prepare your patterns
- Make a same-size copy of each pattern (A3), making sure to include the guide marks:
- Pattern 1 - to be used once with the plain fabric (for the left-hand front panel of the smock)
- Pattern 2 - to be used once with the plain fabric (for the right-hand front panel of the smock)
- Pattern 3 - to be used once with the plain fabric folded over (for the back of the smock)
- Pattern 4 - to be used twice with the patterned fabric (for the decorative edging on the right-hand front side of the smock, next to the buttonholes)
- Pattern 5 - to be used twice with the patterned fabric (for the decorative edging on the left-hand front side of the smock, where the buttons will be sewn) - Cut out the patterns in paper and pin them to the appropriate fabrics (since some patterns are used several times, make sure you choose a robust, heavy grade of paper).
- Carefully cut out all pieces of fabric. (Do not allow an extra margin for seams - all pieces are sewn together leaving a 1 cm margin, which has already been allowed for).
- Taking your patterned fabric, you'll also need to cut out:
- 1 strip cut on the bias measuring 107 cm x 4.5 cm (for the decorative hem at the bottom of the smock)
- 1 strip cut on the bias measuring 108 cm x 3.5 cm (for the edging that extends around the entire smock)
- 2 strips cut on the bias measuring 30 cm x 3.5 cm (for the armholes)
Sew the two front panels:
- Start by embroidering the motif on the front left-hand panel of the smock (Pattern 2) - you can choose a flower design, as in the illustration, or any other design of your choice. Sew a few sequins or beads for added effect.
- Make a 1 cm tuck on each side of Pattern 4, and place it on the guide marks of Pattern 1. Oversew 2mm from the edge to hold it in place.
- Make a 1 cm tuck on each of the three sides of Pattern 5, and place it on the guide marks of Pattern 2. Oversew 2 mm from the edge, paying particular attention to the angles.
- On the two small strips (Pattern 5 sewn on to Pattern 2) sew your buttonholes to match the size of your buttons.
(Note: if you've chosen very large buttons, you'll need to lengthen the strips of tissue to maintain the right proportions, for a pleasing finished look.)
Sew the rest of the smock:
- Place the two shoulders together, right-side against right-side, (Patterns 1 & 3), sew 1 cm from the edge, and overlock the seam.
- Fold over and iron down the seam towards the back.
- Oversew twice, in the style of a seam on a pair of jeans.
- Repeat the same operation for the other shoulder (Patterns 2 & 3).
- Position your 30 cm x 3.5 cm fabric strip around the armhole, wrong-side out, and sew in place 5 mm from the edge.
- Fold the strip over to the outside of the smock, so that you have the same width border on both sides. Oversew on the right side of the smock, 2 mm from the edge.
- Repeat the same operation for the other armhole.
- Using the same technique, pin and sew the 108 cm x 3.5 cm fabric strip all the way along the edge of the front panel of the smock, extending right around the neck. Start at the bottom of the right-hand front panel (Pattern 2) and finish on the angle at the top of the left-hand panel (Pattern 1).
- Sew the inside hem of the left-hand panel following the guide marks on Pattern 1. At the upper corner of this panel (Pattern 1), sew a 20cm piece of ribbon (this will be used to tie the smock together on the inside. You'll sew a corresponding ribbon on the right-hand panel in the next step).
- Bring the sides of the smock together, wrong side out against wrong side out, and sew together in the same fashion as for the shoulders.Note: sew the other 20 cm piece of ribbon in place on the inside of the right-hand panel, following the guide marks on Pattern 2 (you can now tie the smock together from the inside.)
- Place your 107 x 4.5 cm fabric strip on the underside of the botton of the smock and sew into place 5 mm from the edge, fold over, and iron down flat. Fold the strip of fabric over to the front of the smock to form a 1 cm border, and sew into place 2 mm from the edge. Finish the angles by making a 1cm tuck.
- Iron your smock, and sew the buttons into place on the decorative strips.